"When clients are going short for the first time, most want to still feel feminine, so I like to give them a cross layered crop, because it's on the longer side of short. It's undercut, but not hard, has lots of movement and texture, and it can be styled in many different ways--one side/other side, middle-part, tucked/not tucked, slicked," says Ruth Roche, Artistic Ambassador for Pureology Serious Colour Care.
Key things to remember when doing this cut:
● Cut hair wet, so the uncut hair sticks to the guide
● Use the fine teeth of a cutting comb to create tension when using the razor
● Mind the length of the layers - 3" in bottom back, 2.5 in the front, and 5" in the Mohawk section
● For the back, use small straight lines to create the rounded layers that mimic the shape of the head
Roche also uses a technique called "Curtains" to texturize and keep the silhouette close to the head:
● Use pointer and thumb to part hair like a curtain
● Pinch the hair underneath that is closest to the head
● Softly etch with a razor
"Remember short hair pushes long, that's what creates the movement in this cut," adds Roche.