Going to great LENGTHS

by Hair's How

Learn to perform expert hair extensions and that´s what clients will be doing to get an appointment in your salon!

Hair extension is a difficult and expensive procedure and that is why it is not offered by every salon. But is that a reason to shy away from a very profitable and trendy stream of income? Women want what they typically do not have, so it´s worth your while to investigate how you can offer extensions in your salon.

Who is the hair extension client?

According to recent statistics in the hair care market, generation X and Y customers are willing and able to try anything new that offers measurable performance as well as anything new and trendy that catches their eye! So, one strong stimulus for the hair extension client is simply fashion. Hair extensions can also mask a terrible hair cut (not from you, of course!), cosmetic defects in scalp or hair, hair color or a perm treatment gone terribly awry, or thinning hair. Sometimes hair extensions are the perfect choice for a temporary special occasion style like a bridal creation that requires more or longer hair to create.

Choose your method

All the different methods and technologies of hair extension out there can confuse not only the clients but the stylist as well! There are differences in the way hair extensions are prepared, in the technique used to attach it to existing hair, and in what kind of hair is used. European hairdressers patented some principles of hair extension each named in accordance with their historical homeland. And each technique has its own nuances, but the general principle remains unchanged. The basic difference lies in the way of attaching false locks to natural ones — thus, hair extension can be ‘hot´ or ‘cold´.

Some like it hot!

Since special thermal equipment is used in performing ‘hot´ extensions, this method can be considered comparatively expensive, time-consuming and laborious. In particular, special mastership and accuracy is needed when working with the fringe — it is not easy to make the ‘flag´ of the hair dress fly naturally. In ‘hot´ extensions the end of each lock is attached with a special capsule with refractory resin in it and a special device is used that melts and connects the client´s hair with extended locks.

Italian: This ‘hot´ attachment principle is the basis of the Italian method in particular, which makes it possible to extend locks up to 60 centimeters. The fixing mixture here is chosen to match the color of the client´s hair. As for the locks themselves, they mainly use European hair — both natural shades and dyed in fancy colors. Extensions with multi-colored locks with Swarovski paste is also an Italian invention.

French: This extension technology resembles the Italian one with its principal difference in the fixing mixture and the length of extended locks which do not exceed 45 centimeters.

English: This method attaches a lock to the client´s hair with a special glue pistol loaded with soft wax capsules. Under the influence of heat, the wax melts and then hardens immediately connecting extended locks and the natural hair firmly. This technology is also good because it makes it possible to work with both European and Asian hair types.

Some like it cold!

These methods are achieved without heat and are carried out under room temperature without any thermal impact on the hair and so they are termed ‘cold´. The cost is much lower than hot methods because they do not need special equipment beside the basic solutions: cosmetic preparation for natural locks, fixing activating solution and removal solvent. Like the French and Italian procedures, the Dutch and Spanish methods of hair extension differ only with ingredients. As for directly extended locks, for the ‘cold´ method, as a rule, natural hair is needed. Other extension procedures that use no heat or glue are less expensive and completely safe and painless like those using soft crimping links from www.short2long.com. And, African braiding or weaving methods are also 'cold' because there is no thermal impact on the hair.

EXTENSIONS: What type of hair?

The hair you are going to use as the material at hand is conventionally divided into European and Asian classifications.

It is not because the hair is from Asians or Europeans — but instead depends on the processing method. Better methods, which give thin and even curly locks, traditionally belong to Europe. But cheaper technologies usually used in China, give thicker and straighter hair.
All natural hair passes through treatment before it comes to the salon, which leaves out even the smallest possibility of any infection. Then the raw materials undergo a special method of evaporating all pigment. Next, the raw materials are dyed into various natural shades. The color spectrum can be one-colored, multicolored, or high-lighted. Once the hair is re-colored, It is formed into locks of 35 to 50 hairs each. And the standard length of a formed lock is usually 30, 45, 60 or 90 centimeters. A capsule with glue mixture is fixed at the end of a lock which makes it possible to use every lock several times. And, after extension procedures, ‘new´ hair can be dyed again and even chemically waved.

For sensitive clients who are not satisfied with other people´s hair for any reason, mono-fibers is an alternative. These are high-quality synthetic hair fibers — you can not tell it apart from natural hair visually but they do weigh forty times less than natural hair. They are delivered in bulk and stylists separate fibers into locks themselves directly before the procedure. In order to attach synthetic hair you need the abovesaid construction — a pistol and connecting preparation.

By appearance, synthetics look like the perfect solution — an exact copy of real, silky, well-kept hair! But most synthetics resist dyeing and waving. They also mattup faster, break easier and special care needs to be taken in sleeping and showering. Except for Canecalon, used for making African braids and dreads which also weighs several times less than natural hair and therefore does not damage the roots as much with its weight. There are several kinds of this material differing by texture which helps construct every possible braid: little plaits, laces, and goffered ribbons. Besides, it offers unlimited space for experiments with color from natural to fluorescent.

Extension steps

Now you need to match the chosen hair to the client´s natural head of existing hair. Usually extended locks can be dyed to the client´s hair color or the natural hair can be brought into line with the shade of the extended locks. If it´s a question of natural hair, you can also wave ‘the half-finished product´ beforehand if you wish.

After your client´s hair is washed with pH-neutral alkaline-free shampoo and blow-dried, divide your client´s hair into approximately eight relative zones. In the zones close to the nape, use locks of thick hair 30 centimeters long. In the temple zones, thin hair 10 centimeters and longer are extended. Each lock is soldered by the ‘connector´ to the natural hair at one centimeter from the roots. At that point each connection takes an experienced master only two to three seconds. But the true art and style is in arranging the locks so the junctions will not be obvious. The extended hair should fall naturally. In fact, the less noticeable the extensions, the higher the quality of your work.

African braiding techniques

African braiding is quite another matter: A master needs just the perfect combination of braiding and patience. Once you have sorted out which type of synthetic extensions you will use according to the client´s hair, you should decide on the color of the extended locks. You don´t have to wash the client´s hair beforehand but If hair is dry and fragile, use natural cosmetic oil for adding flexibility before the procedure.

According to the technology, African braids are classified into ‘classical´ (three-braid braiding) and ‘rope´ (two-braid braiding). Depending on your experience and the desired result, the number of braids can reach 200 to 250 at least and the process lasts 4 to 15 hours! Quite often, especially in the beginning, it can be painful for the client because you are actually pulling him by the hair. But if the braiding is not tight enough, it will not yield a high-quality result. So patience here is a virtue of both sides. Sometimes braiding becomes even more complicated as the locks are interlaced with golden and silver threads, feathers, paste, smart beads, colored bands and clips. Upon completion of the process, the finished product is treated with special fixing solution. The braids, in turn, can be transformed into various hair styles — tails, knots, buns, torus, bolsters, rosettes.

‘Dreads´ are made rather differently than ‘African braids´. Firstly, Canecalon or the client´s own hair is used for braiding tight, thick braids. They are then fluffed up and covered with cosmetic wax, which is applied the first day and every day thereafter for two weeks while the braids matt together forming the dreadlocks.

After-care success

Usually around 10 days later, it´s a good idea to check-in on the finished product and make any necessary completions or corrections. You should certainly schedule your client for this important appointment and inform them whether the cost of the second visit has been included in the total price.

Although manufacturers claim that extended natural locks are like your own hair in every respect, always remind your clients to use only alkaline-free shampoo. If you offer extensions, you should be selling the necessary shampoos and hair care in your salon.

Depending on the technology used and the rate of natural hair growth, the wearability of extended hair is three to eight months. After that the client will come to your salon again — either to repeat the procedure or to take off the locks. That´s why it is necessary to have the respective instruments in your arsenal, namely special hair nippers and solvent for extension removal.

As for African braids and dreads, their life span is three to four months. In the process of wearing, slight corrections and additional braiding in the temple zones and in the parting zone. Otherwise, it´s easy care for braids: wash the hair two to three times a month with usual shampoos and conditioners. However, it´s desirable to limit the use of hair pomades, which plugs up pores on the scalp.

When the time comes, the client should be stripped of her locks professionally. Warn your clients that this is not a ‘do-it-yourself´ procedure! The slightly moistened braids are cut one centimeter up into the natural hair. Then moisten the hair again, and comb every lock from ends to roots. In spite of the apparent simplicity of the procedure, it is almost impossible to keep the natural hair undamaged trying to take off the false hair without a professional.

THE PRICE OF MASTERSHIP:

Priceless!
Statistics show that the demand for extension services greatly exceeds the supply of salons offering these procedures. So, If you´ve read this far, you´ve probably realized, that providing hair extensions will require a financial investment on your part.

Training: There are many methods and training for each available. Check out listings of methods available for study and training as well as the types of hair extensions you can offer. Your training course may last from one day to three weeks depending the method. The training of ‘hot´ extension costs $50-$2,000 depending on whether the cost of equipment and materials is included. The training of ‘cold´ extension costs almost the same, but necessary equipment can be bought cheaper. As for learning the skills of making braids and dreads, they will cost you $100-300. Check out the Organic Hair Company at www.organichaircompany.com or Cinderella Hair at www.cinderellahair.com which both offer a large selection of tools, training dates and locations as well as the highest quality hair choices.

Locks: lock of natural hair may cost about $1-3 while a synthetic one, costs from $1-2. And since one procedure needs many locks, the discounts can be sizable. Large sections of natural locks can also be purchased and one such ‘super-lock´ may cost $50-70.

Supplies: costs about $500-800. But afterwards you will have to buy additional glue, at $15-30. About the same price you will pay for the removal solution. The system of ‘cold´ extension is much cheaper. Its price is just $100-200. Usually one set is enough to service three clients. You should also remember to supply the necessary care shampoos your clients need which can cost $30-50 each! Those who are planning to offer braid and dread services need five to seven packs of Canecalon (the price of one pack is $4-5) per client. And you might need lots of special decorations — one pack of such accessories, enough for 200 braids, costs about $2-5.

Advertising: Try to keep costs low by using hi tech ways to get the message out that your salon now offers hair extensions: your web site, email updates, your salon newsletter, talk about it on your blog if you have one, investigate online hair extension directories to join. And remember: The main advertisement of a master at hair extensions is the high quality of his work!

The client´s price: The cost to clients for hair extensions or African braiding is calculated as follows: the cost of consumables is increased by 20-50%. The second extension (correction appoiontment) or removal of locks should not be more than half of the prime price. Don´t forget that unnecessary reduction of the price will just make your work unprofitable, due to the time commitments involved and that overstating the price will make your potential clients turn to your competitors.

EXTENSION DO´S & DON´TS SOME RULES FOR PROVIDING HAIR EXTENSIONS ARE VERY ‘CUT & DRIED´: ● Do thoroughly diagnose a new client´s hair for suitability. ● Do be sure your client´s natural hair is at least 8 to 10 centimeters long. ● Do ask your client´s age: teenage hair is typically not strong enough. ● Do ask if your client is pregnant: women´s hair in this condition is also typically not strong enough. ● Do evaluate hair damage. On one hand, weak hair may get stronger due to stimulation of hair follicles and head muscles; on the other hand — weak hair may simply break. A master looks for the difference. ● Do be knowledgeable to advise clients on your methods of hair extension and products used to secure the extensions to existing hair. ● Do be ready to show potential clients what type of hair you will use in your extensions. ● Do match the color of extended hair to your client´s natural hair carefully. ● Do schedule clients for a re-check after 10 days and inform them of the price of this appointment. ● Do sell necessary hair extension care products in your salon. ● Do take the time necessary to ‘cover up your tracks´ as you apply the extensions. ● Don´t perform extensions on clients with hyper-sensitive skin. ● Don´t use hair extensions on clients with any illnesses, real or perceived! ● Don´t use hair extensions on anyone experiencing hair fall-out or baldness. ● Don´t perform hair extensions on anyone with cancer. ● Don´t treat clients who are taking a course of chemotherapy, hormones or antibiotics.

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