CURLY HAIR 101
What makes hair curly? “Hair follicles are either round or oval,” explains Jane Carter, multicultural hair specialist and founder of Jane Carter Solution, a brand that’s dedicated to curly locks. “Straight hair is round and smooth because it grows out of a round follicle, while curly hair grows out of an oval follicle, making the cross-section of the hair flat (the flatter the follicle, the curlier the hair). Straight hair naturally has more moisture and shine because the cuticle layer is smooth. But when curly hair emerges from the follicle, it twists and turns, which causes the cuticle to crack. This is why excessively curly hair requires a lot of product to seal the cuticle so that it can retain moisture and have welcome shine.”
CURLY CARE TIPS
“Most clients with very curly hair are naturally concerned about frizz and managing the expansion of hair caused by this condition,” notes Faatemah Ampey, editorial stylist, NAHA 2009 Fashion Forward winner and Shear Genius3 finalist. “I usually recommend argan oil-based styling aids and lightweight, leave-in conditioners. For clients who want to relax their curls and eliminate frizz with less day-to-day fuss, semipermanent, Brazilian-type treatments are often the best choices as they don’t noticeably damage the hair and the results last for several weeks. But for clients wanting stick-straight hair, traditional relaxers are still the best option.”To customize your product recommendations, Carter strongly believes in evaluating the hair texture—coarse to fine. “Fine curly hair needs lighter-weight products; coarse curly hair needs heavier-weight products,” she explains. “The best way to care for all curl types is to choose products that you can use when the hair is really wet in order to lock-in the curl pattern that occurs right after conditioning. If the hair is excessively curly, I suggest using a product that seals the cuticle and is heavy enough to stretch the hair as it is drying to prevent excess shrinkage.
“Some of the ingredients that work great for curly hair types are avocado oil, shea butter and jojoba oil,” Carter continues. “These ingredients help nourish the hair from the inside out and really make a huge difference in the condition, as well as the appearance of the hair. Some of the more traditional, petroleum-based products can create short-term results by sealing the cuticle, but once you remove them, you’re left with the same issues.Lacey Singleton, multicultural stylist and owner of Upscale Hair Salon in Savannah, Georgia, recommends using “sulfate-, paraben- and phosphate-free shampoos, as well as hydrating conditioners and light-oil moisturizers that are specifically designed to minimize frizz.”
Because highly textured hair requires diligent daily maintenance, it’s essential to give your curly gals explicit instructions on how they should be treating their hair at home. “I recommend that clients water-down their shampoo to prevent natural oils from being stripped from the scalp and hair, and just rinsing the hair and applying a conditioner twice a week,” advises Carter. “Using a paddle brush to detangle the hair before rinsing out the conditioner is also extremely beneficial. Once the hair is rinsed, clients should apply a little more conditioner. They can then apply styling aids over this thin film of protection for better, more controlled results. I also recommend that curly hair be misted twice a day with water infused with a small amount of conditioner. If you add a natural oil or emollient after misting, it tends to seal in the moisture.
CURLY STYLE TIPS
Does anything shrink quite as dramatically as super-curly hair? “If you cut 1/4-inch off super-curly hair when it’s wet, it can be as much as 1-inch shorter when it dries,” advises Ampey. “Quite often, I opt to dry-cut clients with extremely curly hair to avoid this problem.”
Cutting aside, multicultural stylists must be masters of finishing all curl types, including creating long-lasting results. “The best way to ensure that the hair doesn’t revert prematurely, is to work with the existing texture,” notes Ampey. “Twist sets, or taking 1/2-inch sections, coiling the hair in a clockwise motion and then drying it thoroughly, will create styles that last for up to one week. I’m not opposed to blowing-out super-curly hair [straightening], but clients must understand the limitation of this option: humidity, steam or sweat will cause the hair to revert.”
Healthy Tips for Extensionsand Weaves
Q: What care is necessary before applying add-on hair?
“Preparing the hair for these services is critical to ensuring healthy, beautiful outcomes. I recommend that my clients receive a deep conditioning mask and trim before adding extensions.” Faatemah Ampey
Q: What are the caveats for agreeing to do a braiding service?
“The hair must be healthy and chemical-free.” Lacey Singleton
Q: Because tight braiding techniques can cause damage to the hair and scalp, what do you do to help prevent this negative situation from occurring?
“Braiding with human hair is best, because it’s lightweight and offers a variety of styling options. If clients cannot afford human hair, Kanekalon is also a great option. As for tension, stylists should use minimum tension when adding braids; clients should avoid putting their hair up immediately after braiding services as this causes stress at the hairline.” Faatemah Ampey
Comments (0) 
Print this Article
Email to Friend
